01 · Design check 02 · Paper toile 03 · First mock-up 04 · Second mock-up 05 · Third mock-up 06 · Final sample 07 · PP sample
Sample Process · Step by step

One sample journey.
Seven honest steps.

Most factories summarise sampling as “2–3 rounds of mock-ups” and leave it there. Here is exactly what those words mean on our floor — every step, who does what, and why the whole journey takes 3–4 weeks.

Tap any step to jump · or simply scroll — the thread will guide you

3–4 weeks

Multiple fittings, real wear tests and adjustments. Fit cannot be rushed — this journey is where your garment earns its shape.

Your job: OK / not OK

From start to finish, you only confirm the effect — or tell us exactly what is wrong. Everything else happens on our side.

Nothing unfinished leaves

You will never be shown an unadjusted mock-up. We only photograph and send work we are ready to stand behind.

The journey

From your sketch
to a production-ready sample.

The gold thread below is a stitch line — it grows as you read, the same way your pattern grows through seven steps.

01 Before any fabric is cut

Design confirmation

In words and pictures

Before we cut anything, we replay your design back to you — sketches, references and notes — to confirm the effect you want is exactly what we understood. One message now saves whole mock-up rounds later.

WE DO

Prepare a written + visual summary of our understanding and send it to you.

YOU DO

Read it and confirm — “yes, that’s my design” — or correct us before we start.

Why this step exists: fewer misunderstandings now means fewer adjustments later. Efficiency is designed in from the very first message.
02 Pattern stage

Paper toile on the mannequin

The shell prototype

Our pattern maker drafts your pattern and cuts one shell toile in plain fabric. We pin it onto a mannequin to study the garment’s initial silhouette — the shape, the balance, the proportions — before real fabric is ever involved.

WE DO

Draft the pattern, cut the shell toile, pin and study it on the mannequin.

YOU DO

Nothing yet — this stage is entirely internal.

Purpose: get the pattern as accurate as possible at the cheapest possible stage. Accuracy here is pure efficiency, not ceremony.
03 First mock-up

Mock-up I — in similar fabric

Wear-tested, movement-tested

We cut the first mock-up in fabric similar to your final choice, then put it on the mannequin — and on real people. Once fabric and lining are combined, their behaviour together can change measurements in ways nobody can predict on paper. So we test properly: real wear, real movement, and several body types in the same size. Real flesh is soft; a mannequin’s is hard and has no skin. Only on people can we measure true comfort, fit and how the garment behaves in motion.

WE DO

Cut, fit, test on mannequin + real bodies, adjust every section in detail.

YOU DO

Just wait — this round stays entirely inside our atelier.

Why you get no photos of this one: it has not been adjusted yet. If you saw it now, you might mistake this work-in-progress for our final standard of work. You will see it when it deserves to be seen.
04 Second mock-up

Mock-up II — the one you see

Filmed only when we are satisfied

We rebuild the mock-up with every correction from round one. Only when our internal team is satisfied — when it is already close to perfect — do we film and photograph it and send everything to you.

Mock-up IInternal wear test
Mock-up IIFilmed & sent to you
Mock-up IIIOnly if needed
WE DO

Rebuild with corrections, run internal approval, then film and photograph.

YOU DO

Watch the video, study the photos. Then say “OK” — or exactly which part is not OK.

05 Third mock-up — only if needed

Mock-up III, or straight ahead

You never pay for ceremony

If your feedback on Mock-up II requires changes, we make a third mock-up. If round two was already right, we skip this step entirely and move straight to the final sample. No extra rounds for show.

WE DO

Adjust and rebuild — or declare round two final and move on.

YOU DO

Confirm again, the same simple way: OK, or exactly what to fix.

06 Final sample

The final sample — real fabric

Plus your bulk-production plan

Once both sides approve the mock-up, we cut the final sample in your correct fabric and hold every detail to standard. And because building it means we have now walked this garment’s entire production once, we use this stage to complete the full bulk-production plan — which is how your FOB price becomes exact, not estimated.

Operation sequenceWhich section is sewn first, second, third
Minutes per sectionReal timing from the sample run
Daily outputPieces per worker per day
Fabric & lossConsumption and wastage per piece
ResultYour exact bulk FOB price — calculated, not guessed
WE DO

Produce the final sample in correct fabric; complete the production plan and FOB calculation.

YOU DO

Give the final approval on the real thing.

FREE 07 Before bulk

The PP sample — free of charge

Pre-production sample

After you receive the final sample and decide to proceed with bulk (with the 30% deposit), we make one more sample — the pre-production sample. It costs you nothing extra. We confirm it with you by video and photos instead of shipping it, which saves you courier time and freight cost. The moment you confirm, bulk production starts — built exactly to this PP sample.

WE DO

Make the PP sample free, film it, confirm every detail with you by video.

YOU DO

Pay the 30% deposit to lock the bulk slot, then confirm the PP sample by video.

Why we don’t mail it: shipping a sample across the world costs you a week and real money — video approval is faster and free. Your bulk starts sooner.
Your entire job, summarised

During sampling, you only ever say…

Seven steps, and on your side it all comes down to two replies. No forms, no meetings, no project management on your end.

“It’s OK.”

We move to the next step immediately. Most messages in this journey are exactly this one — and that is by design.

“Not OK — here’s where.”

Tell us which part is wrong, as specifically as you can. We adjust it and come back to you with the fix.

That’s it. We handle everything between your replies.

How long does it take?

A realistic window is 3–4 weeks. The time goes into fittings and adjustments — the part that makes your garment fit.

Days 1–4Design check + pattern
Week 1–2Toile + Mock-up I
Week 2–3Mock-up II (III)
Week 3–4Final sample + plan

PP sample follows after your 30% deposit, before bulk. Every style is different — complex constructions sit at the longer end.

One rule about changes

Every step is built on the one before it. That is what makes the process efficient — and why we ask you to understand this one boundary.

✓ Always welcome: small adjustments at any stage — a tighter cuff, a longer placket, a moved pocket.
× Not accepted: replacing the whole design midway. It breaks the process we agreed on and wastes every step before it.

Plan the design before we start — that is exactly what Step 01 is for. This is also why nothing low-quality leaves our floor.

Sample fee · the honest math

Why our sample fee is $200–1,000

We do not offer free sampling — and after reading the seven steps above, you can see why. But compare what the money actually buys:

The cheap way, elsewhere

$60–100 per attempt. If you don’t like it, they remake it — and charge the same again. Third attempt, third payment. Each remake costs full price.

$0
Attempt 1
$60–100
$0
Cumulative
after 2
$0
Cumulative
after 3

Same total money in the end — with low efficiency and a weak fit.

The UP Fashion way

One fee, $200–1,000 by style. It covers the whole journey on this page: paper toile, wear-tested mock-up rounds and the final sample — iterated until you approve.

$0
One fee
$200–1,000
.
.

Iterations included. Fit guaranteed by process, not by luck.

By the end, the money is the same.
The garment is not.

This process is why nothing low-quality leaves our floor — and why the fit is always right.

$1,000

Our most expensive sample to date: a suit made for a film star’s appearance at the Cannes Film Festival. Complex construction, exacting fit, one fee — and the same seven steps you just read.

What you receive

We deliver paper patterns samples.

The sample fee covers the final sample — in your correct fabric, finished, wearable, filmed. We are not a pattern-making studio, and we do not sell or send out paper patterns.

After the seven steps above, you can see why: the pattern carries the value of the entire journey — the toile, the wear tests, every correction. It is the most expensive thing in this building. That is also why a “cheap pattern” from elsewhere should make you ask: how many fittings did it survive?

Sample process — common questions

How much does a sample cost at UP Fashion?

US$200–1,000 per style depending on complexity. The fee covers the whole process on this page — paper toile, wear-tested mock-up rounds and the final sample in your correct fabric. Our most expensive sample to date was $1,000: a suit made for a film star’s appearance at the Cannes Film Festival. We do not offer free sampling.

How long does sampling take?

Typically 3–4 weeks. The time goes into fittings — mannequin checks, real wear tests, movement tests and several body types in the same size. Rushing this stage is how fit problems reach bulk production.

Do you sell paper patterns?

No. We deliver the final sample, not the pattern. We are not a pattern-making studio and we do not sell or send out paper patterns. After seven steps of fitting and correction, the pattern carries the value of the entire process — that is exactly why it is not cheap.

Can I change my design during sampling?

Small adjustments are always welcome. Replacing the whole design midway is not accepted — it breaks the sample process we agreed on. That is why Step 01 exists: we confirm the design in words and pictures before any fabric is cut.

Where does the process fit in the bigger picture?

Sampling is stage two of our four-stage workflow. See the full process overview, the fit standard every mock-up is held to, or delivered cases. Common questions live in the FAQ.

Start your sample
See your design
become real.

Send your sketches, references or tech pack. Within 4 hours you’ll have Step 01 back from us — our written understanding of your design, ready for you to confirm.

Start the sample process See delivered cases

Talk to our team.

Choose the person who best fits your project. Both reply within 4 hours.

QUALITY CHECK8 checkpoints, real photosQUALITY